ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /  book reviews, articles

 
  De soie, d'argent et d'or,
échantillons Parisiens et robes de cour, 1800-1850

in: Bruxelles et la vie urbaine, Mélonges en l'honneur d'Arlette Smolar-Meynart, Archives et Bibliothèques d'Art et d'Histoire, No 64, Bruxelles, 2001, p. 857-868

by Françoise Tetart-Vittu


 
  In this article Françoise Tetart-Vittu deals with a collection of samplers which had been donated in 1981 to mademoiselle Delpierre who was at that time curator of the Musée du Costume de la Ville de Paris. And she herself described it as follows:
" En 1981, une donatrice, madame Brillé, vint me remettre, pour les collections du Musée de la Mode et du Costume de la Ville de Paris, au palais Galliera, un lot d'échantillons de broderie en me précisant que ces échantillons provenaient de la maison de broderie de son grandpère, Georges Lejard, qui avait pris la suite d'Eugénie Beauvais, dont il était auparavant le modéliste, et qui tint cette maison au 9 boulevard des Italiens, de 1875 à 1895."

Mademoiselle Delpierre showed this collection at the reunion of CIETA in Stockholm in 1991, but she could not find more information about these embroideries. It was the book of Katia Johansen, Royal gowns, about the royal collection in the castle of Rosenborg of 1990 which helped to find out, that "la maison Beauvais et Cie" , 57 rue Vivienne, proposed specialities of "robes et manteaux de cour, châles et broderies". Eugénie Beauvais received her diploma of embroideress on the 24th of december 1842 of the queen Marie Amélie and in 1844 a bronce medal.

In the years from 1810 to 1830 the court embroideresses produced robes "lamées", and specially Joséphine liked this shining and glittering appearance. Foreign courts also ordered gowns of this kind. The material tulle was favored at that time and together with paillettes it still was in fashion in 1864.
The samplers are in quite good state of conservation, and the musée Galliera possesses with them witnesses for gowns and costumes from about 1810 to 1895.

   

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