| |
This book edits the
contributions of the meeting in June 2000: "das
Journal des Luxus und der Moden" of the
"DFG-Sonderforschungsbereichs 482, Ereignis
Weimar-Jena. Kultur um 1800". The articles by
Susanne Holmes and Ralf Dressel which belong to the
separate project B4, on "Friedrich Justin
Bertuch", were added.
Main subject of the contributions is the periodical,
edited under several names, the best known among them
being: "Journal des Luxus und der Moden"
(JLM).The contributions are:
- Reiner Flik: Kultur-Merkantilismus? Friedrich Justin
Bertuchs "Journal des Luxus und der Moden"
(1786.1827)
| |
After a discussion
of the relationship of luxury to fashion, this
contribution concentrates itself on the results
of extensive research in the Goethe-and-Schiller
Archive in Weimar and on the analysis of
Bertuch's programatic writings. Bertuch derives
his economic concepts from mercantilism, as his
enterprises before the founding of the JLM show.
In the organisation of the
'Modejournal-Sozietät' Bertuch combines his
interest to present models of foreign products
that can be copied with the marketing of
products, incl. local ones from Weimar. In 1790
the 'Landes-Industrie-Comptoir' founded by
Bertuch took over the marketing of the JLM and
the far-reaching trade that ensued from the JLM.
The wide distribution of the JLM and the
extremely high profit of up to forty per cent
illustrate Bertuch's successful management
concept. |
| |
|
- Gabriele Mentges: Konsum und Zeit; zur Archäologie
des Modejournals am Beispiel des Trachtenbuchs von
Matthäus Schwarz
| |
The article
considers the cultural conditions for the
construction of a fashion journal such as that of
J.F. Bertuch. The main argument stresses time as
the most important category and uses a book of
clothes from the Renaissance, compiled by
Matthäus Schwarz, a bourgeois who lived in
Augsburg from 1496 to 1574 as an example. The
booklet is a collection of 137 drawings, which
illustrate his personal consumption of dress. At
the same time, it is an account of Schwarz'
biography: starting with his parents and covering
certain stages of his life from birth, illness to
old age. The relationship between his body and
dress and between the male subject and the world
runs as main theme trough all these images. By
this it is shown how his body is narrowly
connected with the life of commodities (dress)
and thus to the economic order of consumption.
His live-story is resumed in the balance of the
permanent changing of dress, which turns into his
subjective measure of time. It is the time of
fashion. |
| |
|
- Angela Borchert: Ein Seismograph des Zeitgeistes;
Kultur, Kulturgeschichte und Kulturkritik im
"Journal des Luxus und der Moden"
| |
Like a seismograph
of the spirit of the times, the JLM incorporates
the newest discourses on culture, cultual
history, cultural criticism and cultural theory.
Thus the journal does not limit itself between
1786 and 1805 to publishing evidence of the
fashion and luxury of the present, but also
regularly includes different representations of
luxury and fashion of the past. From a late
Enlightenment understanding of culture, luxury
and fashion, Bertuch develops plans to write
cultural history as a philosophical history. A
history of make-up, a comparison of fashions in
1700 and 1800 in both text and image, and
Boettger's attempt, to disseminate classicist
ideals for the everyday exemplarily illustrate
how cultural history in the JLM marries the
traditional and the innovative. While Goethe's
and Schiller's cultural criticisms only serve as
a point of reference, cultural theory published
in the journal by amongst others Herder
revalorizes the JLM around 1800. |
| |
|
- Karin A. Wurst: Was "Geist oder (...) Sinne
lebhaft beschäftigt"; einige Ueberlegungen zum
Unterhaltungsbegriff im "Journal des Luxus und der
Moden"
| |
Entertainment as a
part of leisure as it was depicted in the JLM
represents an important part of the cultural
tools with which the bourgeoisie expressed its
status and self-definition around 1800. The forms
of entertainment play a role in the internal
differentiation within the bourgeoisie by
offering complex means of distinction. At the
same time, the desire for entertainment becomes a
motor of cultural consumption. Characteristic for
the pleasurable forms of everyday culture are
three elements: a dependence on fashion,
dilettantism (a form of cultural participation
for the bourgeoisie that does not require
professional and disciplinary training), and the
use of cultural practices as designations of
status. The elements associated with the culture
of every-day life can thus become signals giving
expression to the transformation of the bourgeois
lifestyle in the process of modernization. |
| |
|
- Ralf Dressel: Literaturkritik im "Journal des
Luxus und der Moden"; ihre Form und Funktion
innerhalb des Zeitschriftenkonzepts
| |
This essay examines
the literary criticism published in the JLM with
regards to its ability to present readers with
key conceptions of cultural developments within a
national and international framework (literary
history, form and function of literature in
socienty, bourgeois public sphere, patriotism and
nationhood). As key points the respective forms
and thematic orientations of literary criticism
are considered in the context of a changing
concept of the journal. Several areas of research
result from developments over forty years: What
does the JLM contribute to the aesthetic
education and self-cultivation of its public? How
does the dissemination of literature shape a more
and more historical consciousness of national and
European culture? And what positions does the JLM
take in view of the literature of Weimar
Classicism? Each of these concerns is considered
in different sections. |
| |
|
- Susanne Holmes: "Aphroditens holden
Kindern"; Formen und Funktionen von Antikerezeption
im "Journal des Luxus und der Moden"
| |
The JLM takes up
antique authors, subjects, and motives in the
shape of texts and figures. This reception of
antiquity cannot be equated with the reply of the
contemporary representatives of Weimar Classicism
to the 'Querelle des anciens et des modernes' in
order to revive antiquity as an example of
aesthetics, but it is a sign of the ongoing
bourgeois search for identity. By shifting the
literary reception of antiquity to a dialect of
knowledge, the bourgeoisie expresses a certain
level of knowledge and refinement that integrates
the members of this class and distinguishes them
from other classes. The analysis of different
forms of the reception of antiquity shows that
the JLM aims at demonstrating a humanist standard
of knowledge as well as at educating its readers
to become bourgeois subjects. |
| |
|
- Astrid Ackermann: Mode und Nation im "Journal
des Luxus und der Moden" und in vergleichbaren
europäischen Zeitschriften
| |
Despite its
fundamentally international orientation, the JLM
repetedly made reference to the German nation.
The ideas associated with this appear, above all,
in the understanding of the nation as a community
of consumers and as a moral community. These
aspects are united specially in the propagation
of a traditional national costume and in the
boycott of foreign goods and a national taste.
National consciousness, the moulding of a
national identity for women, and opportunities
for women to become nationally involved also are
expressed in corresponding English, French and
Dutch periodicals. In notions of the relationship
between the sexes, of the woman's role, of
patriotic conduct, of national virtues and of
national fashion and taste, feminine (and
masculine) ideals take on national connotations. |
| |
|
- Annemarie Kleinert: Die französischsprachige
Konkurenz des "Journal des Luxus und der Moden"
| |
Part of the everyday
occupations of the editors of the JLM was to look
at French publications. Very often, they copied
contributions and engravings from French
magazines. There were quarrels with the editor of
the first French fashion journal, which appeared
from 1785 to 1793 under different titles. Later,
with other French editors, they had better
relationships. This was partly due to German
correspondents in Paris. The periodical that was
most copied was the Parisian Journal des
Dames et des Modes (1797-1839) which also
had an edition in Frankfurt, Germany. |
| |
|
- Renate Müller-Krumbach: "Da ich den
artistischen Theil ganz zu besorgen habe"; die
Illustrationen für das "Journal des Luxus und der
Moden" von Georg Melchior Kraus
| |
The contribution of
Georg Melchior Kraus to the JLM is far greater
than scholarship has previously considered. Kraus
is not only part owner of the journal due to his
contribution of fifty per cent to the capital. He
is also the highest paid illustrator and a text
author, who co-directs the sections on fashion
according to his intentions. Until 1795 he
supplies almost all the fashion-plates. The
engravings are produced from his drawings,
printed in intaglio, and illuminated under his
supervision. During his travels to Frankfurt am
Main in 1788 and to upper Italy in 1795, he not
only sent his fashion drawings for the JLM to
Weimar, but also commentaries on the drawings,
some of which were printed as is, for the JLM to
Weimar. |
| |
|
- Susanne Müller-Wolff: Ueber Englische Gärten,
französische Landsitze und den "Park bey
Weimar"; die Gartenkunst im "Journal des Luxus
und der Moden"
| |
In their
contributions to the subject of gardening, the
editors of the JLM pursue different goals. They
wished to familiarize a broad circle of readers
with the fundamental principles of landscape
gardening through the descriptions of different
European gardens. They also presented individual
elements of landscape gardening in different
articles, in order to suggest to the reader how
to create their own English garden. Aside from
taste education and concrete instructions, the
journal informed about major garden theoretical
writings and contemporary aesthetic debates in
England. The editor, Bertuch, expressed his own
experiences and point of view in several
contributions on the subjec of landscape
gardening. Surprisingly, the landscape garden
that is contemporaneously developed in the Ilm
valley in Weimar, is not much present in the
articles, which is all the more unexpected, since
Bertuch was responsible for the work in the park
for years, and was closely connected to the
development of the park. Here Beruch's own
intention, to establish through the JLM a diverse
bourgeois culture distinct from courtly culture,
comes to the fore. Beyond a commitment to
aesthtic education, commercial interests play a
central role especially in the advertisements
found in the JLM: The taste education of the
reader with regards to the art of gardening is
accompanied by a professional marketing of many
art works for the development of a garden, as
well as by graphic images of the Weimar landscape
garden. |
| |
|
- Paul Ziche: "Auf eine wohlfeile und bequeme Art
einen anschaulichen Begriff von einer Wissenschaft zu
geben"; Beschreibung im "Journal des Luxus und
der Moden", in der Mechanik und der Wissenschaft um
1800
| |
The JLM features
several descriptions and illustrations of
technical apparatus, intended for practical use,
enhancing the luxury and the aesthetic quality of
one's home. The form of description chosen in the
JLM allows a comparison with similar descriptions
provided by mechanics and scientists, and also a
comparison of the fashion descriptions in the JLM
with descriptions in natural history, i.e. an
advanced area of scientific research around 1800.
These comparisons show that the descriptions of
technical apparatus in the JLM require
considerable scientific knowledge for a proper
appreciation; the form of description adopted in
natural history texts, on the other hand, becomes
understandable as addressing itself towards both
a larger audience and to specialists at the same
time. In concentrating on the form of
description, it therefore becomes possible to
analyze the intended readership of the JLM and
the literary form of a particular subclass of the
contributions in the JLM, and to place the JLM
within a broader scientific culture. |
| |
|
- Catriona Macleod: Skulptur als Ware; Gottlieb Martin
Klauer und das "Journal des Luxus und der
Moden"
| |
The following study
examines the ambivalent role of neoclassical
sculpture as it goes on to the marketplace of
fashion as a commodity through the pages of the
JLM. The career of Weimar court sculptor Gottlieb
Martin Klauer (1742-1801) is exemplary for this
development, and is reconsidered here in its
position between aura and reproduction, art and
technology, monumentality and miniaturisation. |
| |
|
- Daniel Purdy: Die Modernität von Bertuchs
Klassizismus
| |
Bertuch develops a
modern concept of functionality in two contexts:
the description of the utilitarian values of new,
particularly English products and the
representation of the functionalism of classicist
architecture. He attempts to combine fashion and
architecture, in order to construct an integrated
space for a new type of public sphere made up of
consumers. In comparison to Goethe's and Herder's
neo-classicist theories, this endeavour appears
more modern than that anti-ornamental aesthetic
of Weimar classicism. The world of consumption
that Bertuch propagates anticipated the simple
and machine-made interiors by Adolf Loos and Le
Corbusier. |
| |
|
- Literature and Bibliography
- Illustrations
- Abstracts
Persons
|