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Abstract
of the article (as printed on page 82):
Although it is well known that the literature on
embroidery includes investigations into professional and
amateur practice, the interaction between professional
pattern drawers for embroidery, professional embroiderers
and amateurs of this art remains to be fully examined. To
this end, this object lesson examines a group of designs
for embroidery in order to provide evidence of the
technique for which they were employed; the dates and
inscriptions on the designs demonstrate their use as a
business archive, while the names of the clients reveal a
social network. The final part of this article focusses
on trade cards and suggests how the designs illuminate
the negotiation between retailer and customer.
Conclusion (as written in the article on
page 88):
The collection is rich in interest to historians of
embroidery, suggestive of the clients served, though mute
on many other questions. In particular, the designs do
not easily demonstrate the difference between
professional or amateur practice; but they do alert one
to a business organization in which these formed a
retailer's archive. Retailers employed professional
pattern drawers and embroiderers in considerable numbers,
with the latter supplying the growing ready-made market
with fashionable needlework. The designs also give
important examples of a significant fashion business with
a bespoke service for an elite clientele. Studied in
conjunction with trade cards, with more of their history
revealed, the designs demonstrate how such clients
shopped for embroidered dress in the last decades of the
eighteenth century and suggest how their aesthetic and
fashion desires were served through embroidered design.
The designs and textile will be in a display
entitled "Lady Middleton's pattern; Designs for
embroidered Fashion, 1782-1794", from 8 November
2006 until 28 January 2007 in Room 102 on Level 3 of the
Victoria and Albert Museum.
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