ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History   /   CIETA Embroidery Newsletters

Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

No 1
December 1995
To the members of the CIETA Embroidery group St. Gallen, December 1995
this is a first attempt of a Newsletter for CIETA members, interested in embroidery. I am sending to you a new list of members, and I am happy to present some collections with the photograph of an object and a short description. Photographs of other Collections are still wellcome for future newsletters. And please inform me abour your wishes, about events in historic embroidery, about everything important to you.
I wish to everyone a pleasant december and all the best for Christmas and the New Year

with best wishes yours

Anne Wanner
Textilmuseum / Vadianstrasse 2
CH-9000 St Gallen / Switzerland

Musee des Ursulines de Quebec
Christine Turgeon
No 1 / Dec 1995

Mrs Christine Turgeon, curator of
Musee des Ursulines de Quebec
12, rue Donnacona Quebec, Canada GIR 4T1

One of the few contributions of embroidery at this years meeting in Paris was the interesting talk on Ursuline embroidery by Mrs Turgeon. Here is her summary of her presentation in Paris:
When Marie de l'Incarnation and her companions disembarked in Quebec on 1st August 1639, they came to establish a convent there "to the Clory of God and for the education of young girls, both French and natives of the country".
Aged 40 and 36 respectively, Marie de l'Incarnation, from the silk-weaving community of Tours, and Madame de la Peltrie, the lay founder, from the lace town of Alençon, brougt with them an experience and artistic know-how which were to make the Ursuline convent of Quebec the first centre of feminine art in New-France. This vocation was extended and enhanced with the arrival, in 1671, of Marie Lamaire des Anges, an Ursuline nun from Paris, who introduced at the Quebec convent the major art of "needle painting" and embroidery in gold and silver thread.

To illustrate the art of embroidery practised by the Ursulines of Quebec, we have decided to analyse one of the most important items in the collection, the altar frontal "of the nativity".

 

Histor. Museum Luzern
Ursula Karbacher
No 1 / Dec 1995

Mrs Ursula Karbacher, curator of
Historisches Museum Luzern
Pfisterngasse 24
CH-6003 Luzern

Ursuline embroidery can also be found in the central part of Switzerland, Mrs Karbacher presents here:

Altar frontal from around 1700, in the church of Maria Hilf in Lucerne. It was the church of the former Ursuline Convent in Lucerne

The frontal measures 86cm by 224cm and it shows 3 scenes of the legend of St. Ursula:
the seatrip of the eleven thousand virgins; the virigns in Rome before the Pope; the virgins resting in a landscape.
Between the scenes there are columns, flowers, angels.

The coat of arms are the ones of the family "Krus" and "Dorer". In 1693 Genoveva Krus entered the convent of Maria Hilf. The Ursuline nun Anna Maria Marzohl embroidered the frontal in polychrome silk, "needle painting" and other embroidery stitches.

Domkapitel Aachen
Monica Paredis-Vroon
No 1 / Dec 1995

Mrs. Monica Paredis-Vroon,
Domkapitel Aachen, Klosterplatz 2,
D-52062 Aachen, Deutschland

gives another information on Ursuline embroidery:
Mrs Paredis is interested in all ecclesiastical embroidery and
is restoring a vestment which was embroidered by Ursulines of Cologne. It will be exhibited in Aachen.

 

research region middle rhine
Karen Stolleis
No 1 / Dec 1995

Dr. Karen Stolleis,
Waldstrasse 15, D-6242 Kronberg, Deutschland

researches embroidery of the late middle age and baroque in the region of the middle rhine which is not known up to now.
Examples:

gold- and silk embroidery Middlerhine 2nd quarter 18th c., Cathedral of Frankfurt a.Main.

gold embroidery on red and white silk (gros de Tours), 1731, Cathedral of Frankfurt a.Main.

 

Bata Shoe Museum
Edward Maeder
No 1 / Dec 1995

Edward F. Maeder, Director,
The Bata Shoe Museum,
327 Bloor street West, Toronto, Ontatrio, Canada M5S IW7,
Tel: (416) 979-7799, Fax: (416) 979-0078

Venetian shoes from the first decade of the 18th cent. (c.1700-1710), embroidered with silk floss on silk taffeta.

Besides the museum's collection of Pope's shoes (14 pair, from the 18th cent. through the 20th cent.) there are examples of embroidery of more than 50 types as well as various forms of needle lace (i.e. Armenian work) and 17th cent. needle lace applied to a pair of 19th cent. slippers. Edward is putting together a preliminary list of items and will be speaking with several publishers in the next several months.

General Informations:
No 1 / Dec 1995

General Informations:

Dela von Boeselager is writing from Paris about a beautiful exhibition in Paris:
"Costumes à la Cour de Vienne 1815 - 1918" with embroideries of Vienna, Palais Galliera, until 3rd of March 1996, Catalogue ffrs 290 (in french).

The Textilmuseum St.Gallen shows an exhibition of costumes around 1900:
"Anmut und Eleganz", until autumn 1996.
Some Costumes of the Dortmund exhibition of Spring 1995 are shown here, inclusive some modern Costumes worked with material of the recent St.Gallen machine embroidery production.
The Catalogue of the Dortmund exhibition can be ordered at Textilmuseum St.Gallen, sFr. 88.-(german).

The Musee d'art et d'histoire in Geneva (Switzerland) presents:
"CEYIZ" embroideries of the ottoman empire of 19th cent., from July 7th to May 12th 1996,
Catalogue sFr. 60.- (in french).
Mme Anne Rinuy wrote an article on gold and silber embroideries and she made the technical analyses of the threads.
I am copying here the catalogue's bibliography, concerning gold threads:
  • CATALOGUES D'EXPOSITION
  • Broderies, 1992
    Broderie d'Alger, florilege de soie, Institut du monde arabe, Paris 1992
  • Liotard, 1992
    Anne de Herdt, Dessins de Liotard, Musee d'art et d'histoire et musee du Louvre, Geneve et Paris 1992
  • Splendor, 1974
    Louise Mackie, The Splendor of Turkish Weaving, The Textile Museum, Washington 1974
  • Tulipe, 1993
    Turquie, au nom de la tulipe, Centre culturel de BoulogneBillancourt, Thonon-les-Bains et Boulogne-Billancourt 1993

    LIVRES OU ARTICLES SPECIALISES
  • Akbil, 1970
    Fatima Pamir Akbil, Türk el Sanatlarindan Örnekler, Istanbul 1970
  • Bernus et Naffah, 1983
    Marthe Bernus et Christiane Naffah, Les collections ottomanes dans les musees francais, in Cultures et civilisations medievales, I, Etudes medievales et patrimoine turc, volume publie à l'occasion du centieme anniversaire de la naissance de Kemal Atatürk, Paris 1983, pp. 92-125
  • Denny 1972
    Walter Denny, Ottoman Turkish Textiles, in Textile Museum journal, vol. III, 3, decembre 1972, pp. 55-66
  • Erber, 1993
    Christian Erber, A Wealth of Silk and velvet, Breme 1993
  • Johnstone, 1985
    Pauline Johnstone, Turkish Embroidery, Londres 1985
  • Kevorkian et Achdjian, 1991
    R. H. Kevorkian et Berdj Achdjian, Tapis et textiles armeniens, Marseille 1991
  • King et Goedhus
    Donald King, et Michael Goedhus, Imperial Ottoman Textiles, Londres s. d.
  • Gervers, 1982
    Veronika Gervers, The Influence of Ottoman Turkish Textiles and Costume in Eastern Europe, Toronto 1982
  • Oz, 1950
    Tahsin Oz, Turkish Textiles and velvets, Ankara 1950
  • Polychroniadis, 1980
    Helen Polychroniadis, Ellinika kentimata, Greek Emhroideries, Musee Benaki, Athenes 1980
  • Scarce, 1987
    Jennifer Scarce, Women's Costume of the Near and Middle East, Londres et Sydney 1987
  • Taylor, 1993
    Roderick Taylor, Ottoman Embroidery, Londres 1993
  • Ther, 1993
    Ulla Ther, Floral Messages, from Ottomam Court Emhroideries to Anatolian trousseau Chests, Breme 1993
  • Topkapi
    J. M. Rogers, Hülye Tezcan et Selma Delibas, Topkapi, costumes, embroideries and other textiles, Londres 1986
  • Zora, 1977
    Ausstellung griechischer Volkskunst Katalog, Athenes 1977


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