Newsletter - of the CIETA Embroidery Group
Bulletin d’Information de Groupe Broderie de CIETA

Nr 32
June 2008

Rheinfelden, June 17, 2008


Dear members,
This Newsletter Nr 32 is sent as a word attachment to e-mail. A paper version is sent to all members without e-mail.
The same Newsletter can also be read here on the homepage, with links to the special entries.

I am sending to you the address of the Vocabulary in a personal e-mail together with the Newsletter in the attachment. The work is still in progress. At the moment I am studying the method of self couching and therefore made a study trip to Northern Germany.

Please send me your opinion about the self-couching method (see bottom of this page):
-1) are there also examples in England? France? Italy? Spain  or in other countries?
-2) How do you call this method in your own language?
-3) What do you think of the term “surface satin stitch (used in the book of Mary Thomas, p. 180)

Thanks again for sending to me several contributions. I am appreciating all your further information very much.

With all good wishes
yours Anne Wanner
e-mail: wanner@datacomm.ch
homepage
http://www.annatextiles.ch


I N F O R M A T I O N (see also section information)


  • The CIETA Website  http://www.cieta-textiles.org/  has been active since December 2006. It offers a general presentation of CIETA and practical information on its activities, publications and technical courses.
  • The Costume Committee of ICOM has been responsible for the compiling of the Vocabulary of basic terms for the cataloguing of costume in english, French and German: http://www.mda.org.uk/costume/vbt00e.htm
  • Winchester Textile Conservation Centre, University of Southampton: The University of Southampton announces with deep regret that, due to budgetary constraints, it will no longer be able to support the Textile Conservation Centre. The closure of the Centre will commence in summer 2008 to be completed in September 2009, unless another University is found to take over.
    The Textile Conservation Centre, Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, Park Avenue, Winchester SO23 8DL
    Tel: +44(0) 23 8059 7100 email:
    tccuk@soton.ac.uk website: http://www.textileconservationcentre.soton.ac.uk/index.shtml

  • Ibero-American Textile Network at http://www.redtextilia.org - e-mail: info@redtextilia.org, planned meeting in 2010

  • 13th INTERNATIONAL LACE BIENNAL - Brussels - Contemporary Art. Liquidation of a non-profit-making association. QUEEN FABIOLA'S GRAND PRIX. - The 13 Biennial was to celebrate its 25 anniversary with a major retrospective of the Queen Fabiola's Grand Prix shown in the same time as the exhibition of Brussels. However, for reasons completely beyond our control, the 13th International Lace Biennial will not take place. Despite all the efforts undertaken by the administrative board, the association has had to be wound up due to the lack of candidates willing organise the 2008 Biennial and continue the association's activities. (c.delwiche@dbk.be)
  • 25th Anniversary of Geldrop Weaving Museum, Molenstr. 21, NL-5664 Geldrop, Netherlands . Special events from 7 to 25 June. website: http://89.18.168.193/~weverijmus/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=36&Itemid=58

Tours

  • 13th OIDFA Congress, tours from 7 to 11 July 2008 to different places in Holland: http://www.oidfa2008groningen.com/en/lacetour/
  • Forum of Handweaving: at Schwanden, Switzerland. The textile history of the Swiss Canton Glarus will be comunicated by tours in museums and factories, lectures, information. Program: http://www.igw-uta.ch/Galerie/Download/Bruch_e.pdf , part of the meeting is the exhibition "BRUCH". Information: Silvia Gauch (exhibition), Tel. +41 (0)31 911 64 88 and Ursula Zettel (symposium), Tel. +41(0)31 971 34 44 - 29 August until 14 September 2008
  • Cultural travel to Mali 2008, Cultventures - Africa travel, Matthias Bartholdi, Brunnenstr. 15, D-71696, Möglingen, 26 September until 10 October 2008 and 28 November until 12 December 2008 - http://www.cultventures.com/seite225.php

Lectures

  • 14th European Patchwork meeting, St. Marie-aux-Mines, Alsace, France, 18 until 21 September 2008 www.patchwork-europe.com - see also: lectures at St.Marie-aux-Mines, e.g: Nathalie Bresson (F), Embroidery and Cross Stitch; September 18th, at 1 p.m. Duration: about 90 minutes, cost: Euro 8.
  • Filo' ... Intorno al mondo tessile ed.2008, with Noemie Speiser and Tessy Schoenholzer, at Biblioteca Comunale di Maniago (Pn), via Battiferri 1, Maniago, Italy, Friday 4 July 2008. Deadline for inscriptions is 20 June 2008
  • Textilemuseum St.Gallen, Switzerland: In a playful, non-voyeuristic way and with a pinch of wit ‘Secrets – The Lure of Lingerie’ shows the significance of the most intimate item of female clothing for centuries. Lingerie accentuates femininity and projects desires and fantasies. http://www.textilmuseum.ch/en/veranstaltungen.php
    ‚Secrets’- Discussions:
    - ’Diskretion’ ,
    Wednesday 3 September, 6 pm, Textilmuseum with Regierungsrätin Karin Keller-Sutter, St.Gallen, Abbot Daniel Schönbächler, convent ot Disentis, Roger Köppel, editor-in-chief ’Die Weltwoche’. Direction: Patrick Rohr, former editorship Swiss Television (’Quer’ und ’Arena’).
    Price, Apéro and Snackbar included: CHF 22.–

    Platzreservationen/Ticket-Vorverkauf: Textilmuseum St.Gallen, T: +41 71 222 17 44 oder
    info@textilmuseum.ch

  • Textile courses, Textile Kultur Haslach, c/o Tourismusbüro, Marktplatz 45, A-4170 Haslach, 14 July until 25 July 2008
  • 13th OIDFA Congress, OIDFA Congress 2008, Oosterpoort, Trompsingel 27 Groningen, the Netherlands. July 2008. There will be a programme of lectures, courses, exhibitions and tours: http://www.oidfa2008groningen.com/en/ - 4 July until 6July 2008
  • at Historic Deerfield

M E E T I N G S (see also section meetings)


Meetings in June and July:

Forthcoming Meetings:

  • 14th European Patchwork meeting, St. Marie-aux-Mines, Alsace, France, 18 until 21 September 2008 www.patchwork-europe.com
  • "Global Fashion and Local Identities", "Dress and Fashion in Africa and Brazil", exhibition with an international symposium with American and Brazilian lecturers. Town Museum of Recife in Brazil. More details via Ilsemargret Luttmann, e-mail: Ilsemargret.Luttmann@arcor.de
  • Forum of Handweaving: at Schwanden, Switzerland. The textile history of the Swiss Canton Glarus will be comunicated by tours in museums and factories, lectures, information. Program: http://www.igw-uta.ch/Galerie/Download/Bruch_e.pdf , part of the meeting is the exhibition "BRUCH". Information: Silvia Gauch (exhibition), Tel. +41 (0)31 911 64 88 and Ursula Zettel (symposium), Tel. +41(0)31 971 34 44 - 29 August until 14 September 2008
  • 11th BIENNIAL SYMPOSIUM CALL FOR PAPERS - OF THE TEXTILE SOCIETY OF – AMERICA will take place in Honolulu, Hawai'i, September 24-27, 2008
    Information: Janice Lessman-Moss, External Relations Director,
    jlessman@kent.edu
  • "Reinventions: Artists and Tapestry", 2nd Symposium of the Victoria Tapestry Workshop, Melbourne, Australia, in 2008, Contact: Di Macleod, e-mail: dmacleod@victapestry.com.au
  • Society for History of Technology, next conference will be in Lisbon, Oct 11-14, 2008, http://fiftieth.shotnews.net/?page_id=14 
  • Costume Colloquium: A tribute to Janet Arnold, The Costume Colloquium Scientific Sessions will be held at: Auditorium al Duomo, Via de'Cerretani, 54r - 50123 Florence
    Florence,
    November 6-9, 2008, deadlines: registration: reduced until June 30, 2008, full fee from July 2008, hotel reservation until October 1st 2008
  • "From Lausanne to Beijing's" Fifth International Fiber Art Biennial
    Organizers: Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, Chinese Arts and Crafts Institute of Fiber Art Committee.
    November 25, 2008 - December 25, 2008, Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts.
    Application time:
    May 25, 2008 - July 25, 2008 (the date for a nomination form arrival date)
    Contact the organizing committee:
    Haidian District, Beijing Tsinghua University, Tsinghua University of Arts
    and Crafts Academy of Fine Arts Department of fiber art laboratory
    Zip code: 100084 - Contact: Dan Zheng, Quan-Hua Liu
    Tel / Fax: 010-62798976 - E-mail:
    linlecheng010@163.com
    http://www.chinafiberart.com.cn/ - (Chinese art fiber network)
   

E X H I B I T I O N S: (see also section exhibition)


Important note from Brussels: (June 17th 2008)
13th INTERNATIONAL LACE BIENNAL - Brussels
- Contemporary Art. Liquidation of a non-profit-making association. QUEEN FABIOLA'S GRAND PRIX. - The 13 Biennial was to celebrate its 25 anniversary with a major retrospective of the Queen Fabiola's Grand Prix shown in the same time as the exhibition of Brussels.
However, for reasons completely beyond our control, the 13th International Lace Biennial will not take place. Despite all the efforts undertaken by the administrative board, the association has had to be wound up due to the lack of candidates willing organise the 2008 Biennial and continue the association's activities. E-mail: c.delwiche@dbk.be

forthcoming exhibitions:

  • Degree exhibition textile design, Basle Switzerland (Diplomausstellung der Schule für Gestaltung, Basel), Regent AG, Dornacherstr. 390, CH-4018 Basel, 23 June until 11 July 2008
  • San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles, 520 South First Street, San Jose CA 95114, USA, Beyond Knitting: Uncharted Stitches, 17 June to 24 August 2008; e-mail: info@sjquiltmuseum.org , website: http://www.sjquiltmuseum.org
    "Sculptural Approach to Knitting" and the talk "The New World of Knitting" will take place on the
    weekend of 21/22 June.
  • Mariluisa Sponga, International Quilt Festival Long Beach, California 25 until 27 July 2008
  • Rosina Baumgartner Bäbler aus Engi, Switzerland, Hänggiturm in Schwanden, Switzerland, 29 August until 31 August 2008 (see page from 8 January 2002)
  • Wedding Fashion, German-Turkish, Museum für Kunst und Kulturgeschichte, Hansastrasse 3, D-53474 Dortmund, Germany, 17 August 2008 until 15 January 2009
  • Threads unite Women, Stickereimuseum Oberhundem, Rüsperstrasse 1, D-57399 Kirchhundem-Oberhundem, Germany, 19 August until 1 September 2008
  • Ink-jet printing, Regula Stüdli, tuchinform, Obere Kirchgfasse 8, CH-8400 Winterthur, 21 August until 13 September 2008
  • Art of the Stitch (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts), Krefeld, Germany Deutsches Textilmuseum , 28 September until 28 December 2008 - For details call T: +44 (0)20 8943 1229. Catalogue of the exhibition: Art of the Stitch, available at Euro 10 + postage and packing, Embroiderers Guild, Apt. 41 Hampton Court Palace, Surrey KT8 9AU, UK; Tel: ++44-20-89431 229; e-mail: exhibition@embroiderersguild.com
  • Kontich samplers, in Cultuurpunt Altena, Antwerpsesteenweg 79, B-2550, from 19 September until 12 October 2008, Information at www.museumkontich.be.
  • 2008 Miniartextil Como, 18th edition of the international exhibition of contemporary textil art, at the ex-church of San Francesco, Largo Spallino and at other venues in Como, Italy; see: www.miniartextil.it , 27 September until 16 November 2008
  • "From Lausanne to Beijing's" Fifth International Fiber Art Biennial
    Organizers: Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts, Chinese Arts and Crafts Institute of Fiber Art Committee.
    November 25, 2008 - December 25, 2008, Tsinghua University Academy of Fine Arts.
    Application time:
    May 25, 2008 - July 25, 2008 (the date for a nomination form arrival date)
    Contact the organizing committee:
    Haidian District, Beijing Tsinghua University, Tsinghua University of Arts
    and Crafts Academy of Fine Arts Department of fiber art laboratory
    Zip code: 100084 - Contact: Dan Zheng, Quan-Hua Liu
    Tel / Fax: 010-62798976 - E-mail:
    linlecheng010@163.com - http://www.chinafiberart.com.cn/ - (Chinese art fiber network)
  • Projekt Muschelseide, Naturhistorisches Museum , Augustinergasse 2, CH Basel, Switzerland, 17 October until 1 March 2009
  • Art of the Stitch: (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts). Budapest Museum of Applied Arts, 31 January until 21 March 2009
  • Art of the Stitch: (Results of the international open biennial exhibition, organised by the British Embroiderers' Guild in cooperation with Coats Crafts), Seville, Spain, Fundacion Valentin de Madariaga, 25 April to 20 June 2009
  • 13th International Lace Biennial, www.dbk.be , e-mail: c.delwiche@dbk.be, exhibition: November 2008 until January 2009

current Exhibitions:
Switzerland

  • Embroidery in the digital age, Ursula Spicher-Waldburger, tuchinform, Obere Kirchgeaas 8, CH-8400 Winterthur, Switzerland, 5 June until 28 July 2008
  • Textile Museum St.Gallen Switzerland - http://www.textilmuseum.ch/:
    'Secrets - The Lure of Lingerie' , The exhibition in the Textile Museum St.Gallen on the history and significance of the most intimate item of female clothing.
    8 May until 30 December 2008
  • Bourgeois Pride and Princely Splendour, Costumes from the Sixteenth to Eighteenth Century, Abeggstiftung Riggisberg, Switzerland, 20 April to 2 November 2008

permanent exhibitions:
Switzerland:

  • temporarily removed

current Exhibitions:
different countries:

France, Belgique:

  • Exposition organisée par le Musée de la Visitation: Fastes et exuberance pour les saints de la visitation, Musée de la Visitation
    4, place de l’Ancien Palais, Moulins, France,
    10 May until 15 November 2008

Great Britain:

  • Timeless Splendour, Woven Silks from India (2004-2007) by Rahul Jain, Francesca Galloway, First Floor 31 Dover Street, London WIS 4ND, 10 June until 25 July 2008
  • Treasures of the Ashmolean Museum, Ashmolean Museum, The University of Oxford, Beaumont Street/St. Giles, (UK) Oxford OX1 2PH - 24 May until 31 December 2008

Germany, Austria:

  • Juried exhibition "Interspaces" Textile Kultur Haslach, c/o Tourismusbuero, Marktplatz 45, A-4170 Halsach, 13 June until 15 September 2008
  • Von Diamanten und Lumpenpüppchen - Quilts und Kleider der Amish, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, Germany, 18 May until 24 August 2008
  • Chic, fashion 20th century, Museum Hermesvilla, Vienna, until 2008

Italy, Spain:

  • Nodi d'Artista, Galleria Fiber Art, Piazza Tripoli 9 - Milano, Italy
  • 3re edition of "soft", international judged exhibition of fashion accessories. This year they will also show clothing. Address: Asociation de Creadores Textiles de Madrid, Apartado de Correos 14.060, E-28080 Madrid, Spain, closing date: 30 July 2008, e-mail: info@creadorestextiles.org, website: http://www.creadorestextiles.org
  • COLLEZIONE CIVICA DI FIBER ART di CHIERI (Torino), ”TRAME D’AUTORE”
    Exhibition and workshops, from 29 March until 29 June 2008

Lithuania:

  • International Summer-Academy for Textile Arts, Kaunas Art Institute, Muitines St. 4, 44280 Kaunas (LT), summer 2008

USA:


B O O K R E V I E W S: (see also section book reviews)


books and articles:

since March 2008:

  • Fromme Bilderwelten, Mittelalterliche Textilien und Handschriften, Thorsten Henke, catalogue of the exhibition 19 May until 14 August 2005, in german language, 83 p., many colored fotos, Kestner Museum, Museum Kestnerianum 9, 2005
  • Underkläder (Underwear), Britta Hammar and Pernilla Rasmussen, 252 pages, hardback, illustrated. Format 220 x 230mm. Special offer: price 190 SKr/copy including VAT. Costs for postage will be added. Suggested retailprice is 340 SKr. Bokförlaget Atlantis AB, Sturegatan 24, 114 36 Stockholm;
    Tel: 08-545 660 70; Fax: 08-545 660 71;
    mail@atlantisbok.se website: www.atlantisbok.se
  • Sperimentazioni Tessili, da Trame d'autore alla Collezione Civica di Fiber Art - Chieri
    Textile experiments. From trame d'Autore to the Civic collection of Fiber Art - Chieri
    a cura di Silvana Nota, Celid, Torino, March 2008, 95 pages, color and black and white fotos, english summary, Euro 20.00
    ISBN 88-7661-793-0 and 978-88-7661-793-5 -
    http://www.celid.it/html/mostraLibro.jsp?codice=9788876617935

  • Contemporary International Fiber Art, from Lausanne to Beijing, 2004.
    3rd International Fiber Art Biennale (Shanghai) Catalogue, 242 pages, many color and black and white photographs, english translations. With 80 portraits of Chinese fibre artists; and 83 portraits of Korean, Japanese, Indian, Australian, Canadian, US-American, European fibre artists.
    ISBN: 7-112-06994-7 TU 6235 (12948) Edited by Academy of Arts & Design, Tsinghua University
    http://www.china-abp.com.cn

  • "Artes Textiles. Ornamentos para la Liturgia" en Real Colegiata de San Isidoro de León. Relicario de la monaquía leonesa, by M. PÉREZ SÁNCHEZ, Editorial Edilesa, León, 2007, Cap. X, pags. 266-277.

  • Jede Nonne stickte auf ihre Weise, Christa Maria Jeitner, in: Beiträge zur Erhaltung von Kunst- und Kulturgut, 1/2 2007, Bonn/Regensburg (S. 62-75) - (published by Schnell and Steiner)

  • Zur textilen Handarbeit in Zisterzienserinnenklöstern der Mark Brandenburg, Christa Maria Jeitner, in: Sachkultur und religiöse Praxis, Bd. 8 der Studien zur Geschichte, Kunst und Kultur der Zisterzienser, Berlin 2007 (p. 320-383, with bibliografies)

  • Catalogue of the exhibition: Art of the Stitch, available at Euro 10 + postage and packing, Embroiderers Guild, Apt. 41 Hampton Court Palace, Surrey KT8 9AU, UK; Tel: ++44-20-89431 229; e-mail: exhibition@embroiderersguild.com
    www.embroiderersguild.com

  • Textiles, Textilmuseum St.Gallen Textile Museum, Institution and Collections, with english and french summary, Ursula Karbacher, 84 pages, St.Gallen 2008, ISBN 978-3-7291-1115-8

  • Rubans, soieries et haute couture, 1867-1986, Musée d'Art et d'Industrie, place Louis Comte, F-42026 Saint Etienne, catalogue in french and english, 208 pages, 132 fotografs, at Euro 30 , http://www.anous.fr/lyon/agenda/
    http://www.saint-etienne.fr/index.php?module=cms&action=getContent&id_heading_object=1110&newrub=950&

  • Histoire de Mode, Christian Lacroix, 240 pages, 150 fotografs, french and english, at Euro 49.-, http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr
    http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/fr/02museemode/christian-lacroix/page01.html

  • "Les Annees Folles (1919-192)", Musée Galliera, Paris, 10 Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, F-75116, catalogue, 328 pages at Euro 59.- http://www.galliera.paris.fr

  • The Migration of Stitches & the Practice of Stitch as Movement, by Anne Butler Morrell, 16 pages, published by D.S. Mehta on behalf of Sarabhai Foundation, Shahibag, Ahmedabad - 380 004, India. ISBN: 81-86980-39-3 - www.calicomuseum.com
    http://www.calicomuseum.com/migr_stitch_move.htm

  • The Embroideries at Hardwick Hall, by Santina M. Levey, National Trust books 2007, 400 color photographs, 280 x 219 mm, 400 pages, ISBN 13: 978 190 5400 515, £ 50.-
    Available from selected Trust shops, good bookshops, or from the distributor (+0870 787 1613)
    http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-abc4.pdf


V O C A B U L A R Y:


A very interesting study was made by Youlie Spandidaki for the Benaki Museum in Athens:
It treats the “opus teutonicum” Altar Cloth in the collection of the Museum. The embroidery technique is studied and explained with very good fotos. She also shows variations of the self couching method. And very interesting are the fillings with stemstitch, other stitches are explained with excellent photos as well. The study is going to be published very soon.

 
Self couching used as contour in embroidery
 
Self couching as found in the wool embroidery, for instance in Northern Germany, 1300 until 1520
 
Self couching: the overlook stitch  may change in direction. This can be worked regularly or in an irregular and casual way.
   
               
 
Self couching technique: rows of short surface satin stitches. The overlook stitch may vary in directions. See linen embroidery of Northern Germany, 13 to 15th c.
 
Self couching technique: the rows of the surface satin stitches are encroached. The surface satin stitch worked in steps of 2 rows.
 
Self couching technique: the rows are encroached, oblique and worked separately.
   

 

Self couching technique: the rows are encroached, oblique and worked separately (see diagram)
 
frontside
 
reverse side
 
stemstitch, chainstitch or self couching ??
               
 
face of Christ with stemstitch filling
 
stemstitch, frontside
 
stemstitch, reverse side
   

Study trip in Northern Germany:
I was studying the self couching stitches for the vocabulary on a study trip to northern Germany. I was interested specially in the coloured wool embroidery from 1300 to 1500 in the convents of Lüne, Ebstorf, Wienhausen: Here are some of the fotos I took. The reverse sides of the embroideries are very rarely accessible. The stitching is mostly done in vertical direction on a linen ground.
 

self couching around 1300

self couching around 1330
 
     

self couching around 1350-60

self couching around 1400
 
     

self couching frontside 1492

self couching reverse side 1492
 
     

 
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