ANNE WANNER'S Textiles in History / symposiums


Textiles and Text:
Re-establishing the links between
archival and object-based research

Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton, UK
11 - 13 July 2006



Third Annual Conference of the Arts & Humanities Research Council Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies
Textile Conservation Centre, University of Southampton.

The primary focus of this conference is the interrelationship between archival and bibliographic research and the study of extant objects.

Sessions will consider how archival and bibliographic research can inform our knowledge of textiles and dress, in terms of their production,consumption, dissemination and deterioration and how the study of extant objects can give added depth to this analysis.
Sessions will also be devoted to considering: what tools can be used to investigate textiles produced by cultures that are not predominantly text based and how scientific and photographic analytical techniques can provide clues which cannot readily be gleaned either from the objects or written sources.
Papers are encouraged that cover a wide geographical remit so allowing comparison between 'Eastern' and 'Western' traditions. Papers relating to the four Research Centre themes are welcomed. A broad chronological span is also sought to encompass issues ranging from pre-history to the present day.

The Venue:
The conference will be held at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton.

The venue is a modern site with good travel links by air to Southampton Airport, rail air from Gatwick or Heathrow plus coach or train and train, approximately 1 hour from London.
Winchester is an historic city famous for its Cathedral and King Arthur's Round Table and offers a wide range of place to stay. Participants will be free to choose their own accommodation.

The conference fee will be in the region of 100 and the
deadline for bookings is 1 June 2006. Please note that early booking is advised since there is a strict limit to participant numbers. A booking form will be available in due course as a pdf document from

For all enquiries, please contact:
Chris Bennett
The Conference Secretariat
The AHRC Research Centre for Textile Conservation and Textile Studies
The Textile Conservation Centre
Winchester School of Art
The University of Southampton
Park Avenue
SO23 8DL
Tel: +44 (0)23 8059 7100

  Provisional Programme

Tuesday 11 July 2006

Keynote address
Researching Interiors: The example of the 'Chintz Lady', Elsie de Wolfe
Penny Sparke, Pro Vice-Chancellor (Arts), Kingston University

Into the Archive

Using and researching at a business textile archive
Sue Kerry, freelance

Abundant images and scanty text: reading textile pattern books
Philip Sykas, Manchester Metropolitan University

'I have bought cloth for you and will deliver it myself'
Using documentary sources in the analysis of the archaeological textile
finds from Quseir-al-Qadim, Egypt
Fiona Handley, Research Fellow, AHRC Research Centre for Textile Studies &
Textile Conservation, Winchester

Other Strategies

'Wherein Taylors may finde out new fashions': Constructing the Costume
Research Image Library (CRIL)
Jane Malcolm-Davies, Research Fellow, AHRC Research Centre for Textile
Studies & Textile Conservation

Looking at armour to understand textile: Unlocking one facet of Henry VIII's
Maria Hayward, AHRC Research Centre for Textile Studies & Textile
Conservation, Winchester

A portrait, two dresses, two samplers and a burning steam ship
Edward Maeder, Historic Deerfield, USA

Wednesday 12 July 2006

Illuminating dress history - untapped resources

Henry Temple (1676-1757), first Viscount Palmerston's Account Books: An
untapped source for records of mourning in the eighteenth century
Lee Clatworthy, Textile Conservation Centre

Ad(dressing) the Century: Fashionability and Floral Frocks
Jo Turney, Bath Spa University

East and West

A paradise of pretty girls: the kimono and perceptions of Japan
Elizabeth Kramer, Research Fellow, AHRC Research Centre for Textile
Conservation & Textile Studies, Manchester

Dragon Robes and Prairie Ladies: the incongruity between archives and
Julia Petrov, University of Brighton

Chasing the dragon: researching Chinese textiles in early-twentieth century
domestic interiors
Sarah Cheang, London College of Fashion

Textiles and trade - Florence as a trading city

Fashioning the Tudor Court. Hans Holbein, the Florentine Bardi & Cavalcanti
company and the image of the modern English courtier
Cinzia Maria Sicca, University of Pisa

Costume at the Court of Cosimo and Eleonora de Medici. On fashion and
Florentine textile production
Bruna Niccoli, University of Pisa

Domesticity explored and challenged

'A linen pocket, five keys and a prayer book': approaches to a history of
women's tie-on pockets
Barbara Burman, University of Southampton

The Anti-macassar in fact and fiction: how textual resources reveal
adomestic textile
Alice McEwan, independent scholar

Collaborative approaches: curators, conservators and dress historians

Thrissels and Thistles: Scottish Covenanting Flags of the 17th century
George Dalgleish and Lynn McClean, National Museums of Scotland

The Purple Puzzle: The object spoke
Maria Jordan and Mika Takami, Historic Royal Palaces

Joining Forces: the intersection of two replica objects
Hilary Davidson, freelance and Anna Hodson, The National Museum of the
American Indian, Smithsonian Institution

Thursday 13 July 2006

Approaches uncovered by conservation

Understanding the full story: Acknowledging intimate interactions of
textiles and text as both help and hindrance for preservation
Cordelia Rogerson, Textile Conservation Centre

Deciphering text hidden within a 1718 coverlet: Documentation of papers
hidden within an early eighteenth century coverlet using transmitted light
Karen Thompson and Mike Halliwell, AHRC Research Centre for Textile
Conservation and Textile Studies

Jewish Ceremonial Textiles and the Torah
Bernice Morris, Philadelphia Museum of Art

Uncovering institutions

Laces and Documents: the IRE and Pieta Collections in Venice
Isabella Campagnol Fabretti, University of Udine

Undated, Unattributable and Unfinished: Forgotten samplers and their
re-evaluation through archival research
Joyce Taylor Dawson, University of Southampton

Censorship and omission from the record

'Inoffensively Feminine': First World War Military Concert Parties, Female
Impersonators and their dress
Sarah Norris, Manchester Metropolitan University

Silenced Voices, Speaking Textiles
Jessica Hemmings, University of Southampton


From: Chris Bennett <>
Subject: AHRC Annual Conference
Date: Fri, 26 May 2006 12:42:24 +0200

H-Net Network for Museums and Museum Studies

home content Last revised May 31, 2006