B O O K R E V I E
W S: (see
also section book reviews)
books
and articles:
books
at CIETA Conference 2013 in Lyon:
Les
acteurs de la broderie, Qui brode quoi
et pour qui ? sous la direction de Danièle
Denise et Françoise Cousin, AFET , 160 pages, 20
x 23 cm, all in colour, ISBN : 978-2-84280-227-1
- à 24 Euro + frais de port, order at Fanny
Viollet: fanny@viollet.com - Editions SEPIA - www.editions-sepia.com
C'est à plusieurs des questions peu étudiées
jusqu'à présent, que tentent de répondre les
textes ici réunis, à l'issue des Journées
d'Etude de l'Association Française pour l'Etude
du Textile qui se sont déroulées en novembre
2012 dans la ville du Puy-en-Velay (Haute-Loire).
Beziehungsreiche
Gewebe: Textilien im Mittelalter, Silke Tammen,
Kristin Böse (editor), 467 pages,
Frankfurt 2013, edition Lang Peter Frankfurt,
ISBN-10: 3631636644, ISBN-13:
978-3631636640, 20,8 x 14,5 x 2,3 cm - http://www.peterlang.com - info@peterlang.com
Die hier versammelten Beiträge untersuchen
Bildteppiche, Paramente und andere Textilien vom
Frühmittelalter bis in die Zeit um 1500 im
Hinblick auf das von ihnen entfaltete
Spannungsverhältnis zwischen Bildlichkeit und
spezifischer Stofflichkeit, fragen nach
Semantisierungen von Textilien, medialen
Austauschbeziehungen, nach Raum- und
Körperbezügen und möchten damit medien- und
kulturwissenschaftlich geprägte
Perspektivierungen «beziehungsreicher Gewebe»
anregen.
When
Weaving Flourished, The Silk Industry in
Amstedam and Haarlem 1585-1750, by
Sjoujke Colenbrander, Aronson Publishers
2013 - 240 pages, 95 color illustrations, in
english, 10,5 x 8,2 x 0,7 inches -
ISBN-10 : 949078205X - ISBN-13 : 978-9490782054 -
: Primavera
Press, Leiden, at Euro 38.50
www.aronsonpublishers.com or the distributor: www.primaverapers.nl
Dr. Sjoukje Colenbrander is an independent
textile historian and leading authority on the
Dutch silk industry. In 2009 she was the first to
receive the Dave Aronson-Prize for her research
into the silk industry in Amsterdam and Haarlem
during the 17th and 18th centuries.
In the time of
the Dutch Republic, the towns of Amsterdam and
Haarlem were the centre of a flourishing silk
industry. This little known area of the Dutch
textile industry has now been thoroughly studied
for the first time. The book not only paints a
fascinating picture of the organization of the
silk weavers workshops, the looms and the fabrics
woven on them, it also offers us a glimpse into
the lives of those involved: the weavers, the
designers of the patterns, and the manufacturers
or fabrikeurs who employed them. One of the
important results of the present research for the
history of textiles is the definitive
identification of a group of silk fabrics with
chinoiserie designs.
Di
Seta e d'Argento, l'Andrienne di Santa
Maria Maddalena nella parrocchiale di Uggiano La
Chiesa, a cura di Nuccia Barbone Pugliese
e Maria Pia Pettinau Vescina, Edizioni
di Pagina 2013, in italian, ISBN-10: 8874701888,
ISBN-13: 978-8874701889, 21,8 x 21,8 x 1 cm, Euro
15.- http://www.libreriadelsanto.it/libri/9788874701889/di-seta-e-dargento.html
Selling
Silks A Merchant's Sample Book, by Lesley
Ellis Miller, V&A Publishing,
Victoria and Albert Museum 2014, in
english, 272 pages, 145 color illustrations, 2190
x 226 mm, at £ 35.00 - ISBN: 1-85177-781-4
EAN: 9781851777815
contact Abrams & Chronicle Books
representative www.vandapublishing.com
A French edition
of the book will be available from La Biothèque
des Arts www.bda.ch
Collecting
Textiles, edited by Fondazione Antonio
Ratti, english edition, 208 pages, 16,5 x 24 cm,
ISBN 978-88-422-2234-7 - Paperback, at Euro 25.00
- preorder at (15 % discount) info@alllemandi.com
Umberto Allemandi & Cie, Torino - Londra -
Venezia - New York
Sectors: Textile design, fashion exhibition,
collecting, history of tissue, decorative arts
Tessuti
egiziani dall'età ellenistica al medioevo,
nelle Raccolte del Castello Sforzesco di Milano, Paolo
Peri, Pistoia 2013, ISBN
978-88-9784804-2
Taschen,
eine europäische Kulturgeschichte 1500 - 1930, Johannes
Pietsch. Der Bestand des Bayerischen
Nationalmuseums, Hgg von Renate Eikelmann,
München 2013, 344 pages, many
color illustrations, Euro 38 + postage, order at poststelle AT bnm.mwn.de
Tapisseries
1925, les gobelins à l'exposition
internationale des Arts Décoratifs de Paris -
ouvrage collectif sous la direction de Jehanne
Lazaj et Bruno Ythier,
Editions Privat, 2012, 10, rue
des Arts -BP 38028, F-31080 Toulouse Cedex 6
- ISBN : 978-2-7089-1770-5 - blog.cite-tapisserie.com - cc-aubusson-felletin.fr - http://vimeo.com/45822234
L’exposition internationale des
arts décoratifs et industriels modernes
organisée à Paris en 1925 consacre
définitivement le style Art Déco. La tapisserie
y était très présente avec les écoles et
manufactures d’Aubusson, de Beauvais, des
Gobelins. Des pièces somptueuses furent créées
pour l’occasion.
C’est la première fois depuis 1925 que des
pièces exceptionnelles de ces différentes
fabriques seront de nouveau rassemblées.
D’autres pièces des années 1920,
réalisées à Aubusson et Felletin,
complèteront cette présentation avec une
deuxième exposition dans l’hôtel de ville
d’Aubusson (du 29 juin au 16 septembre
2012).
- l'exposition internationale de 1925
- l'ensignement de la tapisserie à
l'exposition de 1925
- les manufactures de tapisseries à l'exposition
de 1925
- en contrepoint, la tapisserie à l'atelier
textile du Bauhaus vers 1925
- le context locale: Aubusson,
une ville et la modernité du début du XXe
siècle
- annexes
Women
at Work in Preindustrial France by Daryl
M. Hafter, published by Pennsylvania
State University Press, 2007,
ISBN 13: 978-0-271-02969-6 - ISBN 10:
0-271-02969-2, 330 pages, in english, 152 x 229
mm, 623 gr, Euro 59.32, £ 46,95, $56.95 - http://www.h-france.net/vol10reviews/vol10no211Hardwick.pdf
The subject of women as skilled workers in the
eighteenth century is central to our
understanding of the history of work and
technology in the preindustrial age. While recent
scholarship has dispelled the notion that women
did not enter the workforce until the Industrial
Revolution, debate continues as to the extent to
which women actually participated in skilled work
in the preceding decades. This book draws upon
substantial archival research in Rouen, Lyon, and
Paris to show that while the vast majority of
working women in eighteenth-century France
labored at unskilled, low-paying jobs, it was not
at all unusual for women to be actively engaged
in economic activities as workers, managers, and
merchants. Some even developed vertically
integrated wholesale and retail businesses, while
others became indispensable to manufacturers
through their technical skill. In fact, Hafter
documents how certain women guild masters were
able to exploit the legal system to achieve
considerable economic independence, power,
wealth, and legal parity with male masters. She
also shows how gender politics complicated the
day-to-day experience of these working women.
An
Early Lace Workbook, by Rosmary
Shepherd, ISBN 978-0-9591235-4-8 - PayPal email
payments, EFT, Cheque and Money Order, Price:
$39.95 AUD + shipping - http://www.lacepressaustralia.com/pubs1.html
In the book there are 21 reconstructions of
surviving 16th and early 17th century lace, and 9
interpretations of lace in paintings. All have
patterns and instructions. Most of the pieces are
easy and interesting to work and because of their
scale they are more than suitable as modern
trimmings.
In 1979 Shepherd was a founding member of the
Australian Lace Guild and held office on many
occasions. She was also active in other arts and
crafts organisations, and in curriculum
development for tertiary textile education. In
1990 she was awarded an Order of Australia Medal
(OAM) for service to the arts, particularly
lacemaking.
Paramentenbesatz
im Wandel der Zeit, gewebte Borten der
italienischen Renaissance, by Ruth
Grönwoldt, in german, 472 pages, 21
color illustrations, 395 black and white
illustrations, 26,1 x 32,1 cm, München
2013, ISBN 978-3-905014-57-0 - may by
acquired by Abegg Stiftung Riggisberg,
Switzerland at CHF 170.- + postage http://www.abegg-stiftung.ch/d/publikationen/neuerscheinung.html or
Hirmer Verlag ISBN 978-3-7774-3765-1 http://hirmerverlag.de/controller.php?cmd=detail&titelnummer=3765 at Euro 128.-
European
Loop Braiding Investigations and
results, by Noémy Speiser, Joy Boutrup and
others
published, edited & distributed by
Jennie Parry
Part I: Orthodox and unorthodox
exchanging of loops in co-operation - at
£ 14
Part II: Instructions for Letter Braids
in 17th Century Manuscripts - at £ 18
Part III: Loop Braiding in Swedish
Bridgettine Tradition - at £ 16
Part IV: Track Plans as a Tool for
Analysis, Applications of Loop-Manipulation
Braids - at £ 16
Full set of 4 £ 55. All are post free. Cheques
payable to Jennie Parry, PayPal accepted,
available from Jennie Parry, 21 St Philip's Road,
Leicester. LE5 5TR. UK - jennieparry2003@yahoo.co.uk
Threads
That Move Proceedings of the Second
International Conference on Braiding in
Manchester Metropolitan University, Manchester,
England 19-25 August 2012, edited by Shirley
Berlin and Ruth MacGregor, published by
The Braid Society 2012 www.braidsociety.com - 160 pages, all coloured
pictures, in english - ISBN 978-0-9573127-0-8
The focus of this second worldwide
gathering expanded to embrace braiding traditions
from many cultures.
Contents: Braids and Traditions,
by Jacqui Carey, Mari Omur
Kumihimo by Makiko Tada, Jennie
Parry, Carol Miller Franklin, Giovanna Imperia,
Adrienne Gaskell
Loop Manipulation Braiding by
Joy Boutrup, Ingrid Crickmore
Ply Splitting by Erroll Pires Nelson,
Julie Hedges, Barbara J. Walker
Weaving by Elizabeth Kolb,
Laverne Waddington, Anne Dyer, Anne Dixon, Robyn
Spady, Elizabeth Kolb
Related Techniques by Carol
James, Gilian Dye
Braidmaking in Context by Stacey
Harvey-Brown, Lyn Christiansen, Trish Goodfield
Acknowledgements - http://www.braidsociety.com/graphic/TTMpart.pdf
Fingerweaving
Untangled, an illustrated beginners
guide including detailed patterns and common
mistakes, by Carol James, Illustrations
by Carol James and Janet LaFrance, 2011 third
edition, ISBN 978-0-9784695-0-4, www.SashWeaver.ca -
contents: Introduction, Materials, Getting
started
Tips, Tricks and Troubles, Traditional Patterns,
Graph patterns, Glossary
Sprang
- Unsprang - an illustrated guide to
interlinking, interlacing and intertwining, written
by Carol James, illustrated by Carol
James and Janet LaFrance, 2011-
published by Carol James, Sashewaver, 140 rue
Notre Dame, Winnipeg, Manitobe, R2H OC1, Canada -
www.SashWeaver.ca
printed in Canada by Friesens Printing - ISBN
978-0-9784695-2-8
Contents: I Beginning Instructions, II Weaving
Methods, III Textile Structures and Patterns IV
Grid Patterns and Appendix, Bibliography, Index
Digital
Jacquard Design, by Julie Holyoke,
including photographs and illustrations by Dario
Bartolini, October 2013, Price £ 28. (offer
not valid in North America, Canada, Australia or
New Zealand)
Bloomsbury Academic, 227 pages, 220
colour illustrations, www.bloomsbury.com - ISBN : HB :
978-0-85785-345-5
contents:
Part I: The Designer's Skill Set
- 1. Visual analysis: identifying contrasts
2. Sample analysis and documentation: structure
and design
3. Weave drafting methods: recording, designing
and reading weaves
Part II: Technology, Process, Technique
4. Weave-patterning Technology
5. Design Process and Terminology, from Sketch to
Card
6. Figuring Techniques
Part III: Woven Structure, Design and the
Jacquard Medium
7. Weave Glossary, Choosing and Building
Weaves, Evaluating Weaves
8. Which Comes First: Figuring Technique or
Design
9. Case Studies
Notes
Bibliography
Contributors
Photography and Illustrations
Index
Since June
the following notices on books:
Julie
Holyoke, Digital Jacquard Design, Bloomsbury
Academic, London 2013. 256
pages, 220 colour illustrations, ISBN
9780857853455
Philippe
Bardelot - Irène Jourd'heuil - Jean-Baptiste
Lebigue, Le vestiaire liturgique de la
cathédrale de Bourges: Textiles
religieux des XIXe et XXe siècles (Collection
Cahiers du patrimoine no 98),
photographies François Lauginie, Editions
Lieux Dits, Paris 2012. 160 pages, 234
illustrations, ISBN 978-2-36219-053-7
Mad
of M.A.D. Trésors cachés du musée des
arts décoratifs de Lyon, edited by
Maximilien Durand, Livres EMCC, Lyon
2012, 312 pages, with numerous colour
illustrations, ISBN 978-2-35740-245-4
Lyon
et Dragons, Dessiccateurs de la
Condition des Soies, edited by Maximilien
Durand, Livres EMCC, Lyon 2012,
214 pages, with numerous colour
illustrations, ISBN 978-2-35740-259-1
Rivages.
Carte blanche à Ruth Gurvich, edited
by Maximilien Durand, Livres EMCC, Lyon
2012, 96 pages, with numerous colour
illustrations, ISBN 978-2-35740-264-5
Nederlandish
Fashion in the Seventeenth Century (Riggisberger
Berichte vol. 19), edited by Johannes
Pietsch and Anna Jolly, with contributions by Sjoukje
Colenbrander, Marguerite Coppens, Irene
Groeneweg, Maria Hayward, Katia
Johansen, Joanna Marschner, David Mitchell,
Bianca M. du Mortier, Michael North, Johannes
Pietsch, Aileen Ribeiro, Frieda Sorber, Jenny
Tiramani, Gundula Wolter. Abegg-
Stiftung, Riggisberg, 2012. 188 pages, 92
illustrations, ISBN 978-3-905014-45-7
Heidi
Blöcher, Die Mitren des hohen Mittelalters.
Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, 2012. 396 pages, 273
illustrations, 70 in colour, ISBN
978-3-905014-51-8
Renate
Woudhuysen-Keller, Das Farbbüechlin Codex 431
aus dem Kloster Engelberg. Ein
Rezeptbuch über Farben zum Färben, Schreiben
und Malen aus dem späten 16. Jahrhundert, 2
vols., Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, 2012.
320 resp. 272 pages, 43 illustrations, 7 plates,
ISBN 978-3-905014-52-5
Ruth
Grönwoldt, Paramentenbesatz im Wandel der Zeit. Gewebte
Borten der italienischen Renaissance.
Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, and Hirmer, München
2013. 472 pages, 395 illustrations, 21 plates,
ISBN 978-3-905014-57-0
Beziehungsreiche
Gewebe. Textilien im Mittelalter,
edited by Kristin Böse and Silke Tammen, with
contributions by Katharina Christina
Schüppel, Anja Grebe, Christoph Winterer, Birgit
Franke, Saskia Hennig von Lange, Hildegard
Elisabeth Keller, Christiane M. Elster, Tanja
Kohwagner-Nikolai, Stefanie Seeberg, Barbara M.
Eggert, Birgitt Borkopp-Restle, Jörg Richter,
Barbara Schellwald, Mateusz Kapustka,
Frankfurt/Main 2012. 467 pages, with
illustrations, ISBN 987-3-631-63664-0
Geschichte
der Textilindustrie im Westmünsterland, Schriftenreihe
Geschichte im Westmünsterland. Hrsg.
Erhard Mietzner, Winfried Semmelmann und Hermann
Josef Stenkamp; Ackerland
Verlagscompanie, Vreden/Bredevoort 2013,
618 pages, at Euro 27.- - ISBN
3-933377-1-6 http://www.ghl-westmuensterland.de/
Der stattliche Band enthält auf ca. 500 Seiten
nach einem einleitenden Beitrag zunächst den
Wiederabdruck einiger älterer Aufsätze, die
wesentliche Erkenntnisse über die
Textilindustrie in diesem Raumin früheren Zeiten
erbracht haben. Mehrere neuere und aktuelle
Arbeiten ergänzen diese Studien. In ihrem
Mittelpunkt stehen hauptsächlich die
Strukturkrise der Textilindustrie, ihre
Auswirkungen und deren Überwindung. Einige
Aufsätze gehen auf die Entwicklung in den
angrenzenden, ebenfalls von der Textilindustrie
geprägten Gebiete der Niederlande ein. Passende
Abbildungen illustrieren die Beiträge. Der
Sammelband endet mit einer umfangreichen
Bibliographie zur Geschichte der Textilindustrie
im Westmünsterland. Dabei ist die entsprechende
Fachliteratur aus den Niederlanden mit
berücksichtigt. Dr. Erhard Mietzner konnte dank
einer großzügigen Spende der Sparkasse
Westmünsterland diesen Teil des Bandes
erarbeiten, er besorgte ebenfalls die
Vorbereitung der Druckvorlage.
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