No 18
July 2002

The meeting of 7th and 8th June in Paris was dedicated to the Vocabulary project. You will find information in this letter.
The castle of Moritzburg, Germany sent an inquiry about the pattern of a furniture embroidery. I am glad, that curators and specialists again helped with news and contributions. Many thanks to all of you who sent information of exhibitions, book reviews,
meetings.
Please continue to inform me about chalice veils, textile exhibitions, books, courses and conferences.

Best wishes, yours
Anne Wanner-JeanRichard
e-mail: wanner@datacomm.ch
homepage http://www.annatextiles.ch

from Great Britain:
Linda Wolley, London
Marianne Ellis, England

from Germany:
Dela von Boeselager, Köln
Karen Stolleis, Frankfurt

from Switzerland:
Anne Wanner, Switzerland

from the Netherlands:
Pat Griffiths, Amsterdam

The programme:

We met early on Friday afternoon in the musée Galliera where Françoise Tetard-Vittu showed samplers from the 19th c. and the very special "échantillons" of gowns embroidered by Eugénie Beauvais (see also book reviews and articles).
Discussion was possible afterwards in the library of the museum.
On Saturday Danièle Denise showed us the embroideries in the beautiful and interesting exhibition at Grand Palais (see also exhibitions).
In the afternoon it was possible to continue the discussions in Grand Palais.

For the french speaking people it was not easy to discuss in english and the english collegues had a hard time to follow the spoken french. But we all felt the need to work on a Vocabulary with drawings and photos in order to know exactly what the specialist of other countries are talking about.

Summary of discussions: The meeting in Paris, 7th and 8th June 2002

I.) It is known that several institutes are working on vocabularies:
-The Textile Museum in Washington, USA is working on an english embroidery thesaurus, but so far there are no experts in other languages involved.
- V&A in London computerizes the collections, but it is not limited to embroideries. The work is done eventually, when there are exhibitions.
- Frieda Sorber, Antwerp, is computerizing her collection. She is also working with terms on embroidery, in dutch language.
- other institutions: ????

II.) for whom is the vocabulary done:
Members of the CIETA-Embroidery group want to set up an embroidery vocabulary for themselves, for the embroidery specialists working in European museums and also for free lance specialists belonging to the group.

a) at first we are going to collect embroidery terms, expressions. We limit the work to European countries. We are collecting basic stitches first, in order to set up a simple vocabulary. We do not collect regional terms. Every country will set up its own vocabulary, and at a later date we will put these terms together.
b) there should be groups according to the material used. As for instance: gold embroideries, whitework embroideries, drawn- and cutwork, blackwork, machine embroidery etc. As an example we will start with gold embroideries.
Thessy Schoenholzer very kindly offered to work on gold embroideries in Italy.
c) we will also make short descriptions for each term, but not on how to do the stitches, but what is tipical, how does the stitch look like. Historical remarks will help to answer questions at which date the embroideries were worked.
d) there should be drawings of the stitches, and one photo of the frontside and one photo of the backside.

III ) -At this first moment, we are doing this research work without financial sources. The aim will be a CD-ROM , as this way of publication is cheaper.

IV) - The next meeting shall be 14th and 15th February 2003 in Munich, as Birgitt Borkopp is going to exhibit embroideries at the Bayerisches National Museum.
I shall send an inscription form to all members towards the end of the year.

Books with references to embroidery stitches:
all collegues working at the project should have these books or copies of parts of them

in german:
- Ruth Grönwoldt, Stickereien von der Vorzeit bis zur Gegenwart, München 1993
- Renée Boser, Irmgard Mueller, Systematik der Stichformen, Basel 1968
- Eva Mühlbächer, Europäische Stickereien vom Mittelalter bis zum Jugendstil, Berlin 1995
- Térèse de Dillemont

in english:
- Mrs Archibald Christie, Samplers and Stitches, a handbook of the embroiderer's art, London 1920
- Mary Thomas, Dictionary of Embroidery Stitches, published by Hodder and Stoughton, Sevenoaks, 1934, last reprint 1993.

in french:
- reprint of Charles Germain de Saint Aubin, Designer to the King, Art of the Embroiderer, 1770, translated and annotated by Nikki Scheurer, additional Notes and Commentaries by Edward Maeder (Los Angeles, 1983)
- Vocabulaire de la broderie de couleur (Nicole de Reyniès)
dans: Livres en broderie - Reliures françaises du Moyen Age à nos jours, expositions organisée par la Bibliothèque nationale de France à la Bibliothèque de l'Arsenal, du 30 Novembre 1995 au 25 février 1996

The following new members joined the CIETA-embroidery group:
- Maria Anne Privat Savigny, e-mail maria-anne.privat-savigny@culture.gouv.fr
Curator of „musée national de la renaissance au château d'Ecouen" close to Paris
- Françoise Tetart-Vittu, e-mail francoise.tetart-vittu@wanadoo.fr
Curator at musée Galliera, Paris, 155 rue du Faubourg St Denis, 75010 Paris.
- Suzanne Perkins Gordon, e-mail BGordon9962@hotmail.com
39, avenue Kleber, 75116 PARIS, France.
- Isabelle Bedat, e-mail. bedat.isabelle@wanadoo.fr
conservation-restauration de textiles anciens, 20 rue Henri Martin, 92170 Vanves, France

The small "Fasanenschlösschen" from around 1770/75 of Moritzburg (Sachsen, Germany) is going to be restored and a design for an embroidered silk wall covering is needed.

- "Uniformen fürs Zivile - Zur Geschichte uniformer Kleidung als symbolische Kommunikation"
May 23 to 25, 2002, organized by University of Muenster, Germany, at: Museumsscheune, Albert-Steeger Str. 5, D-47809 Krefeld-Linn

- 8th International Young Fashion Designers Contest, Admiralteiskaya Igla (Admiralty Needle)
May, 25^th – 31^st 2002, St Petersburg State University of Technology and Design

- Colloque international à Paris, L'ornement en France au XVIIe siècle
vendredi 21 et samedi 22 juin 2002, à l'autitorium du Louvre, de 9 h 30 à 18 h 30

PARIS: mercredi 29 mai 2002 à 11 heures et à 14 heures, Drouot - Richelieu salle 1

- Connections - 5. Internationaler Betonac-Preis, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, 20 March to 26 May 2002
- "Tell me what bonnet you wear ...", traditional St.Gallen bonnets, in cooperation with St.Gallen's Traditional Costume Association, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, June 12th to November 3rd 2002
- "Paths of Infinity" Textile works of Marialuisa Sponga, Textilmuseum St.Gallen, June 26th to August 11th, 2002
- Of Gardens and Castles, Naturalistic Silks from the eighteenth century, Abegg-Stiftung, Riggisberg, 28 April to 10 November 2002
- Objets de parure, Donation en l’honneur de la baronne Maurice de Rothschild, Musée d’art et d’histoire Genève, 15 march to 22 september 2002
- Coiffes, Bonnets et Béguins, musée historique de Lausanne, 21 June to 22 December 2002
- Nach Rang und Stand, Deutsche Ziviluniformen im 19. Jahrhundert, Deutsches Textilmuseum Krefeld, 24. März bis 23. Juni 2002
- Salzburg's Cathedral Museum, entrance in the Cathedral vestibule, Salzburg, Austria
- I colori del lusso, Scialli del Kashmir, Museo di Sant'Agostino, Genova, Italia,, 24 April to 30 June 2002
- Un temps d'Exuberance, Les Arts Décoratifs sous Louis XIII et Anne d'Autriche, Galeries Nationales du Grand Palais, Paris, 11 Avril à 8 Juillet 2002
- Le fil de l'art, Les broderies des Ursulines de Québec, collaboration avec le Musée des Ursulines de Québec, Musée du Quebec, 6 June to 17 November 2002
- …when european princesses were embroidering .. , tent stitch embroideries from 1570 - 1610, Musée national de la Renaissance, Château d'Ecouen, France, 9 June 2002 to 9 march 2003

- "kunstreich und stylgerecht", Die Paramentenstickereien der Schwestern vom neuen Kinde Jesus aus Aachen und Simpeveld 1848-1914, in german, Petra Hesse, München 2001

- In München entworfen, in Mailand gestickt, ein Prunkreitzeug Kurfürst Maximilians I. von Bayern, von Brigitte Volk-Knüttel, in german, in: Münchner Jahrbuch der bildenden Kunst, dritte Folge Band LI 2000, Sonderdruck, p. 137-157

- Il ricamo in Italia dal XVI al XVIII secolo. (Embroidery in Italy from 16th to 18th c.),
Atti delle Giornate di Studio (Novara 21-22 novembre 1998), a cura di Flavia Fiori e Margherita Zanetta Accornero, in italian, Interlinea Edizioni, Novara 2001

- John Shepley (1575-1631), Embroiderer to the High and Mighty Prince Charles, Prince of Wales, in: Textile History, 32 (2), p. 133-155, 2001 by: Patricia Wardle, in english, p. 133 - 155, 3 black and white photos,

Eine schweizerische Wollstickerei um 1600, by Sabine Philipp, and other articles on tapestries, in: Kunst + Architektur in der Schweiz, 2002/1, p. 45-50, in german, with summaries in french and italian

- William Morris og islenskir forngripir, by Elsa E. Gudjonsson, in: Arbok hins islenzka forngripafelags 1999. Reykjavik 2001. Bls.169-184. in icelandic, with english summary, William Morris and Icelandic Antiquities, p. 169-184, 10 colour illustrations. The same article was published in: Hugur og hönd 2000; without notes and English summary, and with somewhat different illustrations.

- Ottoman Embroidery, by Marianne Ellis and Jennifer Wearden, London 2001, in english, V&A publications, 144 pages, 300 x 250mm, 150 colour 12 line, ISBN 1 85177 347 9, price £30.00 

- De soie, d'argent et d'or, échantillons Parisiens et robes de cour, 1800-1850, by Françoise Tetart-Vittu, in: Bruxelles et la vie urbaine, Mélonges en l'honneur d'Arlette Smolar-Meynart, Archives et Bibliothèques d'Art et d'Histoire, No 64, Bruxelles, 2001, p. 857-868

- Une chasuble, travail anglais du 15e siècle, conservée au Trésor de la Cathédrale de Liège, by Françoise Pirenne-Hulin, in french, 2 colour photos. Extrait du Bulletin de la Société des Bibliophiles Liègois, Tome XXIV, 2001, p. 79 - 86

- A propos des brodeurs parisiens de la permière moitié du XVIIe siècle
- Ornements brodés pour la Couronne de Suède, by Danièle Véron-Denise, in: Un temps d'Exuberance, les Arts Décoratifs sous Louis XIII et Anne d'Autrice, from 1610 to 1661, exhibition catalogue, Grand Palais, Paris, 2001, p. 857-868

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